Organizing and archiving digital photos can be a bit tricky. But, it really doesn’t have to be. I travel a lot for the specific purpose of taking photos. When I get back home, I’ve got lots of images to transfer and organize.

I use my photo organizing software (also known as digital asset management) to create folders, organize thumbnails, create searchable fields, add information, and produce contact sheets and burn DVDs (or CDs). Not everyone has to use image organizing software this detailed but it actually has been a great timesaver for me.

The software creates a “record” of each and every image (along with generating a permanent thumbnail) and shows me (text field) on which DVD or CD I’ve burned the original. It also lets me perform searches and shows me all thumbnails that match those search terms all without ever having to load a DVD or CD.

Remember, all the originals may no longer reside on the computer, yet the software can still find them and tell me which DVD or CD they’re on. I then just retrieve that particular DVD or CD and I’ve found my original image. The folder hierarchy you create resides on your hard drive but it’s a very tiny file. This saves you hard drive space!

As for an organizing/archiving workflow, here’s one way of doing it:

• Transfer your digital images to your hard drive.
• Burn them to your DVD or CD twice, with an extra copy used as a backup. Why burn two copies? If one gets stepped on say, by your dog, and gets scratched or cracked, you’ve not lost your photos. If you cherish those images and want to be real safe, store that second copy at a different locale … fires, twisters, space aliens could happen.
• Next, use organizing software to categorize the images on those DVDs (CDs) and add any additional notes (who was that in that photo? Grandma? … what was the event? where was the event? anecdotes, etc.)
• Print contact sheets for the images on your DVD or CD
• Store the contact sheets and DVDs (CDs)
• Finally, remove images from your hard drive to reclaim space if you need to.
•  This may be a more detailed method than most people need but the main point is to find a flow that works for you. Then you’ll find it easy and, dare I say it, fun to organize and archive your digital files.

Text: Copyright 2003 Deborah Siminski Tappan. All rights reserved.

My photography is such that shooting is done out in the field. Because of this, I employ a workflow that allows me to backup my images on location then process them once I’ve returned home. – DST

WHILE OUT IN THE FIELD:

• Shoot using RAW mode
• Copy CF card contents to laptop (folder hierarchy is fixed by place then date)
• Burn DVDs of those RAW images on laptop (name DVDs sequentially)
• Format CF cards for continued shooting

A reminder when shooting in the field:
Applying ecologically sensitive, responsible field practices are of utmost importance. As a strong proponent of wildlife/nature photography and viewing Code of Ethics as well as Leave No Trace Outdoors Ethics, I encourage you to learn more about the ways in which you can lessen your impact. More on this subject of ethics can be found
here.

ONCE BACK HOME:

• Copy DVD(s) contents to desktop computer’s harddrive(s)
• Synchronize digital asset management software’s catalog to include these new images
• To this catalog add keywords, copyright, location, etc. for each image
• Sort images for print use, web use, etc.
• Use a RAW conversion software to convert/process image files
• Accomplish any necessary post-processing in photo editing software
• Save newly processed images to desktop computer’s harddrive(s)
• Synchronize digital asset management software’s catalog to include these newly processed image files
• To this catalog add keywords, copyright, location, etc. for each image file
• Copy all images, catalog(s) and newly processed image files to backup external harddrive
• All images are now ready for use

A note about “processing”:
Post-processing is kept to a minimum. My objective is to photograph nature in a manner which advances our appreciation and understanding of its intricacies. Therefore, my images are not artistic recreations but rather authentic representations of the landscapes and subjects as I’ve found them throughout my travels.

SOFTWARE:
Primary – Extensis Portfolio, DxO Optics Pro, Adobe Photoshop
Secondary – Adobe Lightroom, Nikon Capture

Text: Copyright Deborah Siminski Tappan.  All rights reserved.

One of the pleasures of having a compact digital camera  is being able to shoot lovely macro images without having to purchase additional lenses or accessories. If you haven’t experimented with this feature on your camera, do so. You’ll absolutely love it. It enables you to get very close to your subject and capture their delicate structure without having to resort to enlarging then cropping. Give it a try.

Let’s begin by making use of some of your automatic settings for now. Here’s all you need to do to get started:

• Select the Macro Close-up Mode on your camera.
• Select the finest image quality available (HI=no compression TIFF if you have it, RAW is even better. If not, choose Fine JPEG) and the largest image size available (FULL). This will help ensure that you will be able to print your image at the largest size possible for your particular camera (this is megapixel-related) with photographic quality results.
• If you are unclear on ISO values, don’t worry about it and simply use the Automatic ISO (sensitivity) feature of your camera.
• By the way, I don’t want you to use your popup flash at these near distances just yet, ok?
• Go ahead and select the Programmed Auto exposure mode. Now get very close to your subject … closer, closer. I mean VERY close (within a few inches of your subject.)
• Frame your subject using your LCD monitor (not the viewfinder). Most compact digital cameras (excluding digital SLRs) are effectually range-finder cameras. What this means is that there is a shift in view. What you see in the frame of your viewfinder won’t be what you capture!
• Carefully depress the shutter halfway to make sure you’re at an acceptable focusing distance for your specific camera, then take your photograph.* For example, the Nikon 995 allows you to get as close as 2cm to your subject.
• (*Remember: remain as steady as you possible can. At these extremely close distances and with large apertures (F5.6, etc.) you have a VERY short depth-of-field. Any movement on your part or on the part of your subject (watch out for that breeze) is amplified and will result in a blurry image. You can avoid one of these factors by using a tripod or by bracing yourself against something solid (like a tree trunk or photo buddy). You can avoid the latter factor by asking the winds to cooperate or, if you’re adept at one handed shooting, hold a piece of firm cardboard at an angle to block the breeze.

That’s all there is to it. Have fun!

Photo title: Morning Glory with Morning Dew
Photograph and text: Copyright 2003 Deborah Siminski Tappan. All rights reserved.

Exploring wilderness areas and viewing wildlife in all its varied forms is a thrilling experience. You have the opportunity to witness the intricacies of our natural environment and the interplay of species and habitats. What a delight! To capture any of it photographically is a special treat. No need to ask why I do it; no need to wonder why I tote camera bodies, lenses, tripod, extra batteries, along with the other essentials (water, etc.) while hiking. It’s simply that I love it and you will too! So remember to pack along your camera the next time you’re out exploring.

Here are a few tips to get you started:

• Never harass wildlife: abide by the Code of Ethics for nature and wildlife photography and viewing (WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY Part One: Code of Ethics).
• Always be alert. Know what’s around you and educate yourself on what safety precautions you may need to take.
• Know your camera. If you have to search and fiddle with the controls, you’ll miss the shot. You’ll be pleasantly surprised by the difference it makes using your camera’s manual features instead of its automatic ones.
• Remember that compact digital cameras have a lag time between the depressing of the shutter button and the actual release of the shutter. Work around this unique challenge by practicing on moving subjects and anticipating the action. Another approach is to simply hold down the shutter button; taking a series of shots. With luck you’ll have captured the action you wanted.
• When you get to a location, really look at what’s around you. Though you may have stopped for that heron you saw earlier, there may be a magnificently colored centipede at your feet. Yes indeed, centipedes are wildlife too!
• Wait for natural action. Be very patient and you’ll be rewarded with stunning opportunities.
• Take advantage of the optical zoom capabilities of your compact digital camera but IGNORE the digital zoom feature which merely enlarges pixels turning them into unsightly boulders.
• Don’t use flash. If you’re far from your subject, the flash won’t be of any use. If you’re too close to your subject, you risk startling it and being injured yourself.
• Don’t feel compelled to have your subject fill your frame. Instead include components of the animal’s habitat thereby adding another layer of interest to the story your photograph will tell.
• Focus on the animal’s eyes when possible. If they are sharp, then the entire image is more pleasant to view.
• Select your shutter speed manually. Don’t defer to your automatic mode. You’ll want to be flexible. A running herd shot with a slower shutter speed made while panning produces breathtaking results. (Yep, you’ll want to use a tripod for this.)
• Experiment with depth-of-field. An equally powerful statement can be made using a deep depth-of-focus as with a short depth-of-focus. It’s entirely dependent on what elements you’ve framed in your foreground, midground and background.
• Animals are not unlike high-energy toddlers. Neither stay in one place for very long so be prepared. Never chase them but move cautiously, slowly and smoothly. ALWAYS stay the recommended distance from any wildlife (as specified by the National Park Service or other expert).
• Become familiar with the habits of different species. Enrich your understanding of what they are doing and where you might look for them.
• Shoot when the sun’s angle isn’t straight overhead and harsh. Morning and early evening light are much more pleasant and reveal more of the subject’s texture.
• Try to be level with the critter. This may require a bit more athleticism than you expected, particularly if you’re photographing that centipede. Remember, dirt is your pal!
• Finally, go out on “bad” weather days. Some of the most interesting images are captured during inclement weather.

Happy exploring and have a memorable time!

Photo title: Elk in the Wetlands
Photograph and text: Copyright 2004 Deborah Siminski Tappan. All rights reserved.